Cool Air Anywhere With The Mastercool Portable Evaporative Cooler

If you are seeking for an evaporative air cooler, then Mastercool Evaporative Air coolers should be in your list. Indeed, the long history the Mastercool Company has in producing air cooling products has helped in establishing the brand name. This has been accomplished only through quality products that are durable, efficient with high operating performance.

The quiet Mastercool Portable Evaporative Cooler is cost efficient, easy to install and powerful too!

Unlike other coolers operating with an axial fan, the Mastercool Portable Evaporative cooler incorporates a 2-speed blower fan that can blow air at high velocities with minimal noise. The cooler also comes with an organizer tray at the top in order for a few personal items to be placed on the cooler.

The hose connection to this cooler ends the trouble of refilling the water tank every now and then. However, if you choose to use the traditional method of refilling the tank when it dries up, you will be very glad to know that the water tank of this cooler has storage capacity of up to 5 gallons of water.

Working on 3.5 Amps, this cooler saves up a lot of energy but can still efficiently cool a 700 sq feet area. The louvers of this cooler can also be adjusted to control air distribution.

The unique feature of Mastercool Evaporative Cooler is the water pads, which are specially made from patented cellulosed material to increase water absorption. In addition, the cross-fluted design inside each Mastercool Evaporative Cooler increase its performance by leading more air to the water pads through high air turbulence.

Cooler Air within Larger Dimensions with the Mastercool Evaporative Cooler for large capacities

This machine should be your ultimate choice when you are looking for a cooler for a wider area like a warehouse of factory. This is simply due to the reason that a Mastercool Large Capacity Evaporative Cooler has the ability to cool up to 1000 sq feet.

The Mastercool Large Capacity Evaporative Cooler allows continuous hose supply to the machine. For added water stalling capacity, there is also a 7.5-gallon water tank in the machine. Should there be disrupted water supply, you can always depend on the water in the reservoir to keep your coolers running.

Additionally, the extra air inlets will allow more air to be pushed into the cooler. Other than the quiet 2-speed blower, the Mastercool Coolers direct drive V-belt system to enhance the operations of the machine.

All Master Air Coolers are made of quality materials for added durability. The chassis of the air cooler is built from the exclusive polyband to protect the unit from the effects of sunlight.

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Basic Dishwasher Installation Tips

Installing a built-in dishwasher requires basic mechanical, electrical, and plumbing skills, so the average handy person can install a dishwasher in 1 to 3 hours depending on if it is a new installation or a replacement dishwasher. If you are replacing an existing dishwasher, it will take less time.

New Installation

1. Prepare the cabinet area in which the dishwasher will be installed. The opening should be 24 inches wide for most models, 24 inches deep and 34 1/2" from the floor to the underside of the countertop. The back wall can not have pipes or wires on it. The power and water supply lines will come into the cabinet in the 4"X4" area at the bottom back of the cabinet through a 1 1/2" hole. Make sure the floor is level and the cabinet is squared.

2. Choose your drain method based on your local codes and height of the drain tee. Some codes require an air gap. If the drain tee is less than 18 inches from the floor, you must use an air gap. If an air gap is not required and the tee is over 18 inches from the floor, you can use the loop method for the drain connection. If the drain hose will be connected to a garbage disposal, you have to remove the knock out plug so that the dishwasher will drain.

3. Inspect or install wiring by making sure there is a 120V, 60Hz dedicated circuit with a 15 or 20-amp breaker or time delay fuse. Wiring has to be 2 wire with a ground and rated for 75 degrees Celcius or 176 degrees Farenheit. The wiring can come into the cabinet from either side in the rear bottom area. The hole should be a maximum of 1 1/2", and it can be the same hole used the the water supply line and drain hose if its being hardwired. If it is a flexible power cord, it must have a separate hole. Hardwiring cable will come up the right side along the bottom 24 inches of the cabinet to the right front electrical connection on the dishwasher.

4. Prepare the water supply line that enters through the 1 1/2" hole in the rear bottom of the cabinet. Turn off the water to install a hand shut-off valve under the sink. The water connection is on the left side of the dishwasher. Use 3/8" O.D. copper line to extend a minimum of 19 inches from the rear wall. The water heater should be set between 120 and 150 degrees (closer to 120 if children are in the home to prevent scalding accidents) and the pressure should be between 20-120 PSI.

5. Prepare the dishwasher by checking the door balance and adjusting the spring tension if necessary. If the legs have to be attached, do that close to where it will be installed.

6. Connect the drain hose to the dishwasher's drain port if it did not come factory-installed. Position the electrical wiring and water supply lines so that the base of the dishwasher will not catch them. Slide the dishwasher in front of the opening so that you can feed the drain hose through the hole you drilled for it.

7. Inch-by-inch slide the dishwasher into the cabinet as you fee the drain hose through its hole. Stop with a few inches left and make sure nothing is kinked or pinched. If all is in good order, push the dishwasher all the way in so that the edges of the door are behind the cabinet frame. Test the door for smooth opening and closing.

8. Level the dishwasher front to back and side to side by adjusting the leveling legs.

9. Align the brackets and secure the dishwasher to the countertop according the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Through the access panel, connect the water supply line and electrical supply. Also connect the drain hose under the sink. You are ready to do a wet test with the "rinse only" cycle. Check for leaks and proper draining.

Replacing an Existing Dishwasher

You will not need to drill the holes since they will already be there from the existing dishwasher. However, you do need to inspect the wiring and plumbing to make sure they are capable of servicing the new dishwasher. Once that is established you should turn the power off at the main and turn the water supply off before beginning the removal of the old dishwasher. All lines and wires must first be disconnected. Take the drain hose off the garbage disposal or drain pipe under the sink. If the dishwasher has a power cord, you need to unplug it. If the dishwasher is hardwired, you have to open the access panel and electrical junction box. Remove the wire nuts and disconnect the black and white wires. Also remove the ground screw to disconnect the green ground wire. Use a catch pan while disconnecting the water supply line. Once all of these lines and wires have been disconnected, you can take out the screws and brackets that hold the dishwasher in its place and carefully pull out the old dishwasher.

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